Monday, June 05, 2006

Number Three: Cable V-Neck Cardigan

Here's the next offering in the series. I'm posting these as fast as I can - let me know if there's something in particular you're looking for and I'll try to find it for you!

WOMAN'S LOW V-NECK CARDIGAN Choice of 4 Clever Cable Trims Bernat's Handknit Classics - 1945

Sizing: Bust 34" (36", 38", 40", 42", 44")

This pattern is sized for two separate gauges of yarn- your choice of fingering or DK weight. Fingering Weight: gauge of 7 sts and 10 rows to the inch. The original yarn was Bernat's Boucle de Laine or Fleurette, 150 and 160 yards per ounce respectively. A similar modern yarn would be Koigu KPPM. As a starting point, try size 4 needles. Check needle size to obtain correct gauge. DK Weight - gauge of 6 sts and 9 rows to the inch. The original yarn was Bernat's Knitting Worsted, which was a DK or light worsted yarn at 270 yards per 4 ounces. A similar modern yarn would be RYC Cashsoft DK. As a starting point, try size 6 needles. Check needle size to obtain correct gauge.

A note about sizing - this pattern does not include decreases at the waist, but from the looks of the model it appears to be fit quite snugly. We can only surmise that it therefore fits very tightly, even in light of the fact that it was probably intended to be worn with foundation garments. Add to this the fact that old patterns rarely if ever come with schematics, and you've got some compensation to do. When considering this pattern,debate for yourself whether to go up a size or whether to wear it in its originally intended stomach-sucking glory.

Pattern Stitches for Cable Only:

No. 1: Circle and Spot Cable

Multiple of 12 sts.

Row 1: K2, p2, k4, p2, k2.

Row 2: P2, k2, p4, k2, p2.

Row 3: Same as row 1.

Row 4: Same as row 2.

Row 5: Slip 3 sts onto cable needle and drop to front of work, k2, p1, then p1 and k2 from CN; slip 3 onto cable needle and drop to back of work, K2, p1, then p1 and k2 from CN.

Rows 6-8, 10 and 12: Same as row 2.

Rows 7, 9, and 11: Same as row 1.

Row 13: Slip 3 onto cable needle and drop to back of work, K2, p1, then p1 and k2 from CN, slip 3 sts onto CN and drop to front of work, k2, p1, then p1 and k2 from CN.

Rows 14 and 16: Same as row 2.

Row 15: Same as row 1.

Row 17: K2, P2, K1, slip next 2 sts onto cable needle, wind wool 10 times around these 2 sts, slip these 2 sts back to the right-hand needle, k1, p2, k2.

Row 18: Same as row 2.

Repeat these 18 rows for pattern st.

No. 2: Rib Cable

Multiple of 12 sts.

Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 and 13: K3, p6, k3.

Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, and 14: P3, k6, p3.

Row 15: Slip next 9 sts onto cable needle and drop to back of work, k3, then slip 6 P sts to left hand needle and P these 6 sts, K3 from CN. Row 16: Same as row 2.

Repeat these 16 rows from pattern st.

No. 3: Twisted Cable

Multiple of 12 sts.

Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 and 13: K12.

Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, and 14: P12.

Row 15: Slip 4 sts onto cable needle, drop to vack of work, k4, then bring 4 sts on CN to front of work, k4, then k4 from CN.

Row 16: same as row 2.

Repeat these 16 rows for pattern st.

No. 4. Circle cable.

Multiple of 12 sts.

Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7: K3, p6, k3.

Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: P3, k6, p3.

Row 9: Slip 3 sts onto cable needle and drop to front of work, p3 then k3 sts from CN, slip next 3 sts onto CN and drop to back of work, k3 sts then p3 from CN.

Rows 10, 12, 14, 16, and 18: K3, p6, k3.

Rows 11, 13, 15, and 17: P3, k6, p3.

Row 19: Slip 3 sts onto cable needle and drop to back of work, k3 then p3 sts from CN, slip next 3 sts onto CN and drop to front of work, p3 sts then k3 from CN.

Row 20: Same as row 2.

Repeat these 20 rows for pattern st.

BACK:

On small needles, cast on 122 (128, 134, 140, 144, 148) sts for lightweight version/ 104 (110, 116, 120, 124, 130) sts for medium-weight version. Work in k1, p1 rib for 4 inches. Change to larger needles and work as follows:

Row 1: P 26 (29, 32, 32, 34, 36) sts / 19 (22, 25, 25, 27, 30) sts, work next 12 sts in pattern st, p 46 (46, 46, 52, 52, 52) sts/ 42 (42, 42, 46, 46, 46) sts, work next 12 sts in pattern st, p 26 (29, 32, 32, 34, 36) sts / 19 (22, 25, 25, 27, 30) sts.

Row 2: K 26 (29, 32, 32, 34, 36) sts / 19 (22, 25, 25, 27, 30) sts, work next 12 sts in pattern st, k 46 (46, 46, 52, 52, 52) sts/ 42 (42, 42, 46, 46, 46) sts, work next 12 sts in pattern st, k 26 (29, 32, 32, 34, 36) sts / 19 (22, 25, 25, 27, 30) sts.

Continue in this manner, keeping body of cardigan in stockinette st with P side the right side of the work and 2 panel sts in desired pattern st throughout the back. Work even until back measures 12 (12, 12, 13,13, 13) / 12 (12, 12, 13, 13, 13) inches long.

Shape armhole as follows: Bind 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8) / 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7) sts off at beginning of the next 2 rows (once on each side.) Decrease 1 st at the beginning and end of every other row 7 (7, 8, 8, 8, 8) . 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 7) times. Work even until armhole measures 7 (7 1/4, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9)/ 7 (7 1/4, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9) inches.

Shape shoulders as follows: Bind off 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12) / 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 10) sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows (3 times each side). Bind off remaining sts for back of neck.

LEFT FRONT:

On small needles cast on 66 (69,72, 74, 78, 80) / 52 (55, 58, 60, 66, 69) sts and work in k1, p1 rib for four inches. Change to larger needles and work as follows:

Row 1: P28 (31, 34, 34, 36, 38) / 21 (24, 27, 27, 29, 32) sts, work next 12 sts in pattern st, p26 (26, 26, 28, 30, 30) / 19, (19, 19, 21, 25, 25) sts.

Row 2: K28 (31, 34, 34, 36, 38) / 21 (24, 27, 27, 29, 32) sts, work next 12 sts in pattern st, k26 (26, 26, 28, 30, 30) / 19, (19, 19, 21, 25, 25) sts.

Continue to work in same manner as back, keeping body of cardigan in stockinette st and panel sts in pattern st throughout front. Work even for 2 1/s ins, then at inside edge (p edge) 26 (26, 26, 28, 30, 30) / 19 (19, 19, 21, 25, 25) sts. Shape neck as follows: Dec 1 st every 10th row 3 times, then every 8th row 6 times, then every 6th row. In the meantime, when front is the same length as back to armhole at seam edge (opposite end), shape armhole as follows: Bind off 8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 9) / 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8) sts then dec 1 st at same edge every other row 8 (8, 9, 9, 9, 9) / 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8) times, still continuing to dec 1 st at neck edge until only 30 (30, 33, 33, 36, 36) / 27 (27, 27, 30, 30, 30) sts. Work even until armhole is 1/4 in longer than back.

Shape shoulders as follows: At armside, bind off 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12) / 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 10) sts at the beginning of 3 rows.

RIGHT FRONT:

Work to correspond to left front, be sure to reverse sts so that larger number of P sts is at the end of the needle on the first row.

SLEEVES:

On smaller needles cast on 56 (60, 64, 68, 73, 76) / 52 (56, 60, 64, 68, 72) sts and work in K1, P1 rib for 2 1/2 inches. Change to larger needles and work as follows:

Row 1: P 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32) / 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts, work next 12 sts in pattern st, P22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32) / 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts.

Row 2: K 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32) / 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts, work next 12 sts in pattern st, K 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32) / 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts.

Continue to work in same manner as back, keeping body sts in stockinette st and panel sts in pattern st, and at the same time inc. 1 st each end of needle every 1/2 inch 5 times, then every 3/4 inch until 90 (94, 96, 98, 104, 106) / 80 (84, 86, 88, 94, 96) sts remain.

Shape sleeve cap as follows: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7) / 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6) sts at the beginning of the next two rows (once each side.) Bind off 4 sts at beginning of next two rows (once each side.) Bind off remaining sts.

BAND: On small needles cast on 11 (11, 11, 11, 11, 11) / 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 9) sts and work in rib of K1, P1. Work 1/2 inch, then form first buttonhole: k1, p1, k1, bind off 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5) / 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts, k1, p1, k1. On next row cast on 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5) / 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts above those bound off.

FINISHING: Join seams. Set in sleeves, easing any excess fullness through shoulder line. Sew on band. Block to size and sew in shoulder pads, if desired for vintage look. Sew on buttons.

1 Comments:

Blogger aija said...

These are all so great. Thanks for writing them up and sharing them :)

6/05/2006 2:56 PM  

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